SALMON CURED?

More than any dish I can think of, salmon is useless to restaurant critics. It’s a stolid, predictable fish that chefs tend to prepare in stolid, predictable ways.

EGIPT AND IRAN UNITED BEHIND FISH

At Amalia, chef Ivy Stark has reeled in a fish seldom seen in New York dining circles – which is too bad, because golden tilefish is one of the favorites.

ACTOR JOSH HAMILTON PLAYS A CLAM DIGGER, DOESN'T EAT SHELLFISH

Josh Hamilton has appeared in everything from indie classics such as Noah Baumbach’s Kicking and Screaming to studio flicks such as The Bourne Supremacy to TV shows such as Sex and the City.

THE CASE AGAINST THE MICHELIN GUIDE

Michelin New York City: Imperious interloper or authoritative voice of reason in a town of culinary dummkopfs?

FETTE SAU'S WEIRD WILLIAMSBURG BARBECUE PALACE

Williamsburg’s Fette Sau is the latest entrant into the increasingly competitive New York barbecue field.

Ramsay's London Bar to Modernize As Maze

Though visitors to London often find Gordon Ramsay’s namesake restaurant there to be as much of a snooze as the in New York, they frequently rave about the edgy cooking done at Maze

Italian, Old and New

Once upon a time, in New York City, a French restaurant called Le Pavillon was the model from which fashionable dining establishments sprung. But fashions change.

NEXT STOP IS VIETNAM

How do you bottle that capricious, highly desirable thing called hip? And, more important, once you’ve bottled it, how do you manufacture it night after night?

LIEBRANDT AND NIEPORENT, SITTING IN A TREE

The impending collaboration between Drew Nieporent and Paul Liebrandt, whether at Montrachet or elsewhere, is probably the worst-kept secret in the restaurant business.

KEVIN POPLUM, NEW CHEF AT THOR, NOW OLD CHEF AT THOR

Thor’s hammer has come down on Kevin Pomplun, the young chef who was hired last fall to replace Kurt Guttenbrunner at the swanky restaurant at the Hotel on Rivington.

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