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Chef Yoshihiro Murata is rare among kaiseki's practitioners, Murata has become a Japanese food evangelist. He has appeared on countless Japanese TV shows, has written 15 books (one of which, Kaiseki, the Exquisite Cuisine of Kyoto's Kikunoi Restaurant, has just come out in English) and is chairman of the Japanese Culinary Academy.

Murata may embrace traditional ways, but when it comes to spreading the kaiseki gospel, he is breaking all the rules.

In the intense, 25-chef kitchen at Kikunoi in Kyoto, Japan, the art of kaiseki is a culinary skill and a way of life.